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Polyhydroxystearic Acid and the Mineral Sunscreen Problem
Mineral sunscreens live or die on how well the zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are dispersed. Clumped particles mean patchy coverage and a chalky white finish; evenly separated ones mean a smoother film and a more even look on skin. Polyhydroxystearic acid is the dispersant that keeps them apart — an oil-soluble polymer that coats each particle so it cannot re-aggregate in the tube or on the face.
Which is why this collection reads like a sunscreen aisle: Revision Skincare Intellishade Original SPF 45, SkinBetter Science sunbetter TONE SMART SPF 75, SkinCeuticals Future Mineral UV Defense SPF 50 and EltaMD UV Stick SPF 50+ all rely on it.
Does this ingredient reduce the white cast of mineral sunscreen?
Indirectly, yes. By preventing the mineral filters from clumping it allows a thinner, more uniform film, which is a large part of why modern mineral formulas look far less ghostly than they did a decade ago.
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Featured Products with Polyhydroxystearic Acid Reviews
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